Fixing a Matias switch with keychatter on a KPB V80

So I have this beautiful matias quiet click keyboard that I sort of love for its tactility. The sounds is slightly less impressive though, but still way better than my floss modded IBM M Spacesaver. But the real bummer with this keyword is, you guessed it, keychatter. Now the reason for this is most probably the way the switches are lubed and not properly tested by QA. I have several keys that drive me mad. Let me show you how to fix this if you’re in the same condition.

  • remove the keycap of the switch to “repair” and the ones next to it so you have a little wiggle room

  • use two toothpicks to gently allow the upper part of the switch to be pulled up and released. Do this gently, very very very gently.

  • once the switch is disassembled remove the tactile leaf and clean it with alcohol

disassemble and clean matias switch

  • air spray the bottom of the switch

  • reassemble with care

That should be it. I was able to repair some of the keys and have a way better typing experience now. Hope this helps somebody. There are tons of videos on youtube on how to disassemble alps and matias switches. If the keychatter persists you probably need a new switch and get soldering.

Adding a 10g spring to a topre 45 keyboard

So I’m back to crazy keyboard mods. I have a topre Novatouch that is 45 grams actuation force. It’s nice but it’s definitely lighter and a little less “thock” than a 45 gram uniform Realforce. So I decided I’d try to add a 10g spring. The actuation on a topre board depends on the rubber dome and not on the spring force like with cherry compatible switches so adding an external spring will change tactility and feedback, not just add force. I knew that the feel would be slightly different but… I’m not offended by it in the least. When you hit a topre key you usually face a little bit of resistance high up on the keystroke and then, after a tactile bump, the rest of the travel goes down real fast until you hear the “thock” sound (ok, I don’t, not really because I’ve also silence-modded this baby). With the external spring you need more strength (should be around 55gram actuation ideally) but the weird thing is that instead of the initial resistance-bump-drop-to-the-bottom thing there now is more of a uniform resistance, slighter bump and the key jumps back up. This is much more similar to an IBM Model M but without the sound or (if you exclude the tactile feedback) to a cherry mx black old school. So it’s a completely different beast. I like it, but it’s not topre any more. It’s a ModelM/Topre/MX Black hybrid and (as fatigued as my fingers are at the end of the day) I LOVE IT.